Видео

😂 yea it was more work than i imagined. Turned out really well

Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped!

Thanks for checking it out 👍

Hopefully it’s useful 👍

@@Jef, definitely!

Thanks for checking it out

Hope it’s helpful

Thanks. I wasn’t sure if i wanted to mainstream this one since it was slap dashed together.

@@Jef I think any technique based videos you do are really good and helpful for anyone wishing to learn. I know you have done in the past,but maybe another full technique video is due? Rather than watching the process? Just a thought……

Max said he didnt realize he was doing the finger pad on his pull stroke. I think many do, they just havent had it verbalized, that it is occurring, so are unaware

I've seen that on some higher carbide stuff. It removes some of the aggression, due to the polishing/burnishing effect, these stones have, on those steels. However, it is replaced, with that natural stone edge. It is difficult to describe, but nats, including jnats, have a particular feel to the edge, that is more aggressive than stropping, but less so, than most water stones/diamonds.

I’ve heard people say they can whittle hair around 150g. Personally, i can’t do it. Popping hair, even that i would say, probably not. It will shave hair, but i don’t think it will pop them.

​@@JefI think if you use a diamond compound during stropping you would get even better results. I have heard d2 takes better edges with diamond stones and strops

What is the Belgian blue made of? Arks are mostly quartz.

@@Jef Garnets (dodecahedron in shape) around 25%. Belgian Blue are slow cutters (compared to yellow coticules), not great at raising a burr, but pretty good for deburring IMO and as finishing stones. Having a slurry stone/nagura (another small piece of Belgian Blue) to raise slurry and dilute it over time (grit variation) is the way to go. Belgian Blue is not as great as yellow coticule, but it's way more affordable.

How does the slurry break down if it garnets?

@@Jef You dilute it by adding drops of water along the sharpening process. Essentially, you start by creating a thick dark slurry on the stone, this way you have lots of garnets (this particular stone's abrasive) on suspension on the surface of the stone to grind your edge. This is the lowest grit variation. As you add water, you reduce the amount of abrasive and create your grit progression. You finish, depending on the result you want to achieve, with clear water. You will often see people finishing under running water for straight razors. This would be your highest grit. With this technique, the stone with the highest grit range variation probably is yellow coticule. Obviously, the pressure exerted also impacts the speed grinding and the level of polish. I often use my Belgian Blue on low end (but decent) steels as a strop, with alternate edge trailing strokes and low pressure only, after a 1K stone, to deburr, instead of using leather with compound.

I’ve seen kknives switzerland speak about coticules being able to sharpen high vanadium steels. I looked into purchasing one from the mines, but glord, they are expensive. Maybe one day someone will loan me one, then i can decide if the price is worthwhile 😁

Hi 👋

Chop chop! 😁 I use mine here and there for touch ups, or on my Japanese cutlery, so they see a little use, from time to time.

Yea I doubt I will ever abandon them completely. I really like the edges they produce on my Japanese cutlery

Thank you! 🙏

How is it after the 600? What steel type?

@@Jef simple steels mostly. Nothing fancier than 14c28n, or whatever global uses, white 2 blue super. my beater work knives. Agree 100% with the s30v assessment. Tried it, and hated life. After the 600 diamond( and some ark work ) the edge is incredibly aggressive, but shaves. Hard to describe. Using the black ark to refine the edge.

You press the lock bar at the back of the knife, and rotate the blade, back into the handle

The ingredients to make the steel is pretty much the same, but the processes are different. Cruciple Powder Metallurgy makes a finer grain structure. This makes for a better steel, in terms of edge retention and even sharpness. There are many other benefits to it, as well, which you can research. All in, cpm would be considered better, but in practical use, i personally dont see much difference. They both dull, just like any other steel ive used, and both sharpen to wickedness, with little effort.

Me too. My left hand is about worthless

No worries! You didnt come off sounding like a jerk or anything such. You sound like many others who comment. They like the idea of sharpening, just not the time sink. It took me around 20+ knives with a good set of japanese water stones, before i got “ok”. I get it. Not everyone has the desire to get to that point, although i would strongly recommend you to reconsider. This is a skill you can use the rest of your life. Once you understand what you are doing, you can create an edge that cuts paper, from a brick, or concrete block, and a piece of cardboard. It does take time, and it is a continous journey, but trust me, it is so beneficial. That said, if you are just looking for a bare bones, easy to use sharpener, the recent video i did on the sharpworx utility sharpner isnt a bad option. Maybe not ideal for all knives or settings but simple and easy to figure out. ruclips.net/video/dD9iV95-a1g/видео.htmlfeature=shared If you buy the diamond or cbn rods, along with the stones it comes with, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a decent choice. You only have two angles, but that can be over came by placing coins under the stand, to change the angle as you wish. Another simple device, is just the naniwa angle clamp. I advise placing tape on your knife, before clipping the clamp on, to avoid scratching it. The Buck Honemaster (can be bought on ebay) or the razors edge guided system, are similiar. ruclips.net/video/SmwTokU1dPc/видео.htmlfeature=shared ruclips.net/video/ymJiGtvfv2w/видео.htmlfeature=shared ruclips.net/video/eX07wd0jqoM/видео.htmlfeature=shared Take a look at those and tell me what ya think

@@Jef thank you. i really appreciate it. & I will reconsider. a sharp knife is a safe knife. & the way you were working on that edge looked like it would be therapeutic.will check out the links and go from there. thanks again.

Knife Sharpening - Basic Technique and Demonstration ruclips.net/video/dDXT8zOn5FQ/видео.html

It is very zen like. I have to talk through the videos or they are very boring to watch. If you are alone and just sharpening, you can get into an almost meditative state. 👍

Yea spyderco usually has some decent edges. Cant account for even bevels but that sort of thing happens to all manufacturers. Sometimes it is a bad sharpening, but im finding more and more often, its the main grinds.

@@Jef 6:19 I like how you sharpen it towards yourself; that’s how I normally do it for both sides, I did just sharpen my PM2 30 minutes ago using FB your technique, first side away, second side towards. You were just mentioning on focusing on the tip; I was focusing on the belly and the rest and got it good, neglected the tip a little, noticed it doing the nail test, still works, though 😅

As bad as it is…i love it! The light weight is a 100% seller for me. You dont even feel it in pocket. My lock is unsprung, so there is up and down play, in the blade. I could prob fix it by bending the lock bar, but after stripping the screws, i dont think i can disassemble it any more. Doesnt bother me. Funny how awful some of these knives can come, yet we still like them.

The sink bridge? I got it from chefknivestogo.com

Thanks for the kind words 👊

4 parts water, 1 part dish soap, 1 part baby oil.

Any tape would be better than raw steel 😁

Depends on the knife, stone height, and prob other factors im not thinking of. As far as low, you can set it dead flat parrellel to the stones. Again, depending on height. Obtuse angles, pretty much the same. I dont think you can get a true 90° on it but you could prob get close

Right on. No instructions 🤷‍♂️ 😁 i should have watched a video or two but i didn’t wanna spoil my first impression

Thanks for dropping by!

I’ve never found any guided system good for Scandinavian grind. I suppose you could angle the knife in such a way that you could make it work, but i don’t think it will without some tinkering.

@@Jef Thank you

🤘

Thanks bro. 👊

There's a lot of confusion surrounding "ceramic water stones" out there. Some think it's referring to the binder, some to the abrasive, some think it means ceramic like a Spyderco bench stone. The whole term bothers me because it's so unclear and general. I think the way you're using it; meaning a vitrified stone; is what it SHOULD mean. But in the industry and internet jargon it's not...at least not always 🤦‍♂️

Yes, I have used the Naniwa Habiki 1k. I didn't find it to be a hard stone, like Shapton. More in line with the King 1200. I know, two totally different beasts, but I am just talking about tactile feel. As for Naniwa, after my debacle with the professional series, I will never spend money on that company.

@@AnarchAngel1 well. here's the thing. both can be correct because ceramic can be an abrasive as well as binding. when its used as a binding method it's called vitrified.. or ceramic.. when it's used as an abrasive it's called ceramic. so..

@@jeffhicks8428 I may have misspoke..the Naniwa I have maybe the traditional 1k line..it is just a piece that was cut off the whole stone, that a buddy sent me. I have no marking on it to tell

imo Arks are obsolete stones in terms of functionality but they're still cool and a lot of folks feel sentimental about them. India oil stones are fine but I'd take a more modern water stone over india stones. I still like the Crystolon oil stones for certain things tho and the silicon carbide had more abrasive firepower. Idk what you mean by diamonds. But it could mean a lot of things. Diamond powders or slurries. Coated abrasives diamond plates or films. Bonded abrasives diamond whetstones in the form of resin, vitrified or even metallic binding on a scale of softer to harder. All of those things have their uses. For edges I mostly use the films and resin bound diamond because the films cut just as fast and last just as long as the plates however they have vastly lower tolerance and higher quality scratch patterns and just overall more versatile tool for doing edges. Anything from 120 um down to 0.1 um with grit distribution that's narrower than even high end whetstones. Resin bonded because I like the additional feedback over other bindings, the cost is much lower, the wear rate is still quite slow, and resin has it's own range from very soft more like what you get with Nanohone to very hard resin that wears very slowly like you get on some other products. The one drawback to diamond is that because it cuts everything just about the same in term of steel it is not capable of producing contrasting finishes on the primary bevel of laminated or pattern wilded knives like you see in Japanese kitchen knives. Diamond can do a lot of things, but it can't do that.

I think jeffhicks8428 pretty much answered everything well. I would say I have used those lapping films, and they do a fine job, but they are delicate. You can ruin them easily, if you are not on your game. I've slit them with my knife, just doing edge trailaing strokes, when I dug the tip in. I've sliced more than a few, doing edge leading. They really work best, in s stropping motion, which in itself, is a can of worms. That technique, has a tendency to create burrs, even at really high grits. Micro burrs are a real pain in the butt to deal with. The India stone, coarse, can be one of the absolute fastest stones, on the market. *IF* you can apply the appropriate amount of pressure. That is the biggest draw back. It will cut just about any steel, with the right force. Using oil, can make this precarious, so I would just advise using something a bit more friable. The fine side is quite capable of handling simple steels. Think 1095, 440c, and such. Once you start introducing high carbides, it too, requires more pressure, than I feel is safe. Arks are in that same boat, of simple steel sharpening. They can cut carbides, as Cliff Stamp illustrated in video, when he microbevels 10v? I can't recall what steel it was, but that video is still on youtube should you care to watch. For me, doing a full bevel sharpening, they are just too slow. I have used them, more so in past, than I care to admit. Even sharpening s30v on them. The amount of time spent on those, along with the fact freehand always creates some rocking motion, all my bevels off them, are extremely convexed. Do I have any advise on them? Keep the surface textures conditioned well. Use loose SIC powder on glass, to create a coarse texture on them, and reapply it, as they glaze. Since the stones are not friable, all the cutting is going to come from the surface texture, and pressure. I had someone tell me once, that convexing the Ark stones, made them cut faster. I can't say if this is true, as I never tried it. Those stones are pretty hard, and I would hate to round them out, discover it isn't for me, and then have to re-flatten. I don't use them enough to bother.

Thanks 🙏

I do. On every video. Check the “description” under the video. All the information is there

Without a doubt, free hand is always more convenient ;)

I always suspected coarse edges gave better results in cut testing, just never bothered to confirm it. Sadly, just about any edge loses bite, if you use diamond or cbn. At least, in my experience. Cbn seems to work a tad better, but everytime i have tried them, they just do. It’s yet another reason why i prefer plain ole white compound 🤷‍♂️ You’ve given me something new to experiment with however. I’ll have to fiddle with a few and test my results.

@@Jef nice

lol sorry about that. The 220 is indeed coarse. So much so, I fig’d i would have apexed quicker. Water just flows right through the thing. Ive debated adding a seal of cashew laquer, but the last porous stone i did that to, absorbed so much, it is almost ruined.

Yea i thought tape might work 👍 Works well, but I must have edited out the clip showing how wavy the bevel came out. These guides always have some issue or another, but they get ya sharp.

@@Jef I think you can only count on those guides as an initial bevel setter. Switch to free hand after the bevel is set and finish out. Dragging that clunky piece of metal along in the final stages ruins the initial work. You need to feel the stone in the finishing stages.

Well….bc i know how to freehand i would agree, that is an option. Someone who doesn’t, it wouldn’t be an ideal situation. Maybe, stick to one stone, and done. Regardless, the cut test at the end, says it worked, through the entire progression. Clunky, sure. I think, something simpler, would be a better option. Such as, the Naniwa guide, i showed at the beginning.

@@Jef Small knives (short) are not clunky because the guide stays stable on the stone. Long blades are better done in sections and then blended in. I feel that once you have a flat straight edge ( no convex) you can maintain the angle free hand by watching the swarf. When I started out, I was working with a lot of jacked up blades, and needed to reprofile to a basic edge. I resorted to sharpening some edges on bricks and sidewalks to get by on the jobsite. Now I carry a pocket diamond plate to get me by until I get home and break out the good stones.

What’s wrong with convex? Just easier for you to sharpen flats, or there something else there you prefer? I’ve done the same on sidewalks and bricks, just to get an edge going. I now carry sand paper, and several different stones with me, on my work truck. The pocket sized venev stones are almost always in my back pack.

Yea that seems to be the most common way people deal with this type of bolster. Honestly, we got rid of all these knives. I now mainly use customs, and a few Henckels we purchased.

I dont own a Gesshin, nor plan to. They seem way over priced. So i can not make the comparison. The Latte I purchased did come from Cktg. It was under $50 if memory serves. Worth every penny. As far as analogs to the 1 and 2k Nubatama, there are a few choices that are close. None are truly the same, so unless you can get ahold of the real thing, you’re limited. However, the closest i can think of, you already have. The Shapton Pro 1k. The hardness is close, as is the speed and scratchy feel. Not quite there, but its the best option, imo. The Pride abrasive 1k is another, as far as speed is concerned. The hardness/scratchy feel, is difficult to replicate, and it just isn’t quite here. Finally, I want to say the Norton waterstone 1k, is similiar in speed, and maybe, slight scratchy feel. I havent used it in awhile so can’t say with certainty Hardness and scratchy feel, are hard combinations to match. The Latte has both, but it is a 400 grit, not 1k.

On another note, if you want to try purchasing some, i would try on cktg forums. Ken used to frequent there often. I know he had a large following of sharpeners, on that forum. Maybe if money is right, someone will bite.

@@JefGreat info, thanks man

Dude I totally forgot! Bernal Cutlery Takarazukushi combo stone 1/4k. The 1k is damn near spot on, the Nubatama 1k. Not 'extra hard', but close enough. Same coloration, same scratchy feel. The 4k reminds me of the Nubatama Bamboo 5k. Again, not quite as hard, but pretty damn close. edit:: Bernal Cutlery Takarazukushi - #1200 Grit Blue Marble Japanese Whetstone The 1200 blue marble, looks suspiciously like the 2k Nubatama. Are they the same? I don't know. I need to get one and see

Thanks for checking it out 👊 I got a black handled version years ago that i used lightly. I remember it was really nice in edc tasks. Will have to put it through my work routine to see how it holds up. I’m sure I’ll be sharpening it again on video soon enough 😁

They are priced very well 👍

Thanks for checking it out. This one is not everyone’s flavor 😉

Valid point. Both these were really dull, from my sharpening notch. Multiple times, i slipped with the file, and raked across the edge. The angles were also very obtuse. Around 25-27°/side.

@@Jef Did you use a diamond file for the notch? Maybe you could have included filing the notch in the vidio.

I used a diamond file, and I have several videos that demonstrate the process. It is a bit too slow and tedious. For that, I would most likely do a separate video, but I already have several examples.